As it happens, I was right on day one. If only I had more than two hands to properly gesticulate how many times I’ve heard (er, or said,) ”we have to get together after fashion week!” It’s a crime, really. But this isn’t about the mere mortals seated next to the runways, this is about the copious goodness that has thus far walked on them. And while this is called a Friday recap, let me begin by taking you back to Thursday night, where a star studded front row at Cynthia Rowley‘s unveiling of fall enjoyed mini bottles of prosecco equipped with obligatory straw. It’s the little things.
And here you have it: a military green monochrome look topped with a boyfriend fit overcoat and fancy jeweled choker compliments of our own: DANNIJO. To the right, while not the work of Danielle and Jodie, strategic spurts of embellished sequins and crystals adorned several of these looks. Not photographed here: a satin jumpsuit. Also not photographed here: leather overalls. Impressive indeed.
And following in no particular order: Jason Wu. This collection was wildly interesting to watch: the usual ladylike silhouettes and bold but elegant structured dresses of Wu took a turn for the bad ass in perhaps his darkest collection yet. The color palette included another homage to that military green, burgundy, and bright red. The collection as whole rendered military inspired but not in the hey, cool anorak sense of that word. I’m talking lieutenant general at ranking ceremony. Do also note, gorilla arms are still relevant.
This brings me to Rag & Bone, not necessarily in conjunction with gorilla arms but because both collections previewed a vintage looking brocade floral print designed unlike the curtains your grandmother turned into a bolero. It’s rough, it’s edgy, it rags, no boning. This collection was about layering, a flood of copper adorned the opening looks while more plays on prints and textures in muted color schemes that ran from oranges and reds to browns, blacks, greys strung through the rest of the collection.
And while we’re talking layering: here’s to Rebecca Taylor. This collection too was a nice departure from the flimsy and girly nature of Taylor’s usual design aesthetic. The overall vibe felt nineties grunge, a look I haven’t been ready to see let go. Details to note: ear pieces that extended from the lobe to the cartilage, harem-esque tights, and the important question: “are those chihuahua on my feet or am I walking?” posed and answered some twenty times.
From one Rebecca to another: while you may remember last night’s short homage to the Theophilus London performance at Rebecca Minkoff, there’s something to be said about the clothes too. To the left, a brocade pant suit fit for a repeller, where every eve is New Years Eve and to the right: I’m not sure if you’ve picked up on this trend just yet perusing these images, but alas: a peplum. I’d speculated last month while looking back at Kenzo that peplums over pants may be moving up the anatomical ladder et voila. Present at Wu, Doo.Ri, Rebecca Taylor, Minkoff and finally, from my favorite collection shown thus far:
Peter Som. Let’s see how many more shows we can throw into the genre with the progression of this week. Som was like walking in a winter wonderland. Think thick, lush and bright multi-colored furs, leather harem pants. The brilliant use of fabric and silhouette was complimented well by the sprinkling of organza, tweed, silk and wool. Ultimately though, the a-ha moment of yestermorning was a tribute to the mullet dress, a silhouette I’d thought may be nearing its end.
Alas, I am elated I was wrong.