What I Wore: NYFW Day 1

Cut 25 jacket, T by Alexander Wang sweater, DANNIJO necklaces, Tibi skirt, Hue tights, Proenza Schouler purse, Burberry wedges. Photos via The CutPatrick McMullan.

You asked, here it is: a look at the conquests of my fashion week outfit(s.) While this only from the of chronicles day one, I’ll post whatever becomes readily available whenever it does. Evidently, I am massively off trend as not one single show yet this season has previewed a skirt any shorter than knee length. The rest of this composition is pretty simple: turn my shoe laces into ankle cuffs, pin a water bug brooch compliments of the Tony Duquette x Coach collection to my purse, adorn my arms with parties to weigh them down until biceps start materializing et voila: fashion week. To my right in photo one, notice pervert in crime, Rachel Strugatz’s Jennifer Fisher arm party hiding under a mountain of mongolian fur. Okay now, that’s all I got. More show updates soon. Follow my ass on twitter or tumblr for real time updates from a real time mobile device.


Naeem Khan Fall 2012: The Handmade’s Tale

Naeem Khan Fall 2012 - FlyandMighty.com

Naeem Khan Fall 2012

Known for the luxurious handmade textiles he creates — and for dressing Michelle Obama for her first state dinner – Naeem Khan did not disappoint with his fall 2012 collection. In fact, it was hard to decide which was more beautiful; the fabrics or the pieces themselves. The details were incredible.


Beads were embroidered in swirling and floral patterns onto tulle, metallic threadwork was embroidered onto wool and silk, teardrops of beads were affixed onto sheers to create a 3D polka dot effect, and stretch cigarette pants were jet-beaded. One of my favorite pieces in the collection was a one-shoulder, full-skirted maxi gown with an oversized bow at the shoulder.


Check out this vintage backstage interview with Khan from the spring 2009 season in which he speaks about his textiles.


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[photos by Nana Brew-Hammond]


NYFW Day 2: The Highlights

As it happens, I was right on day one. If only I had more than two hands to properly gesticulate how many times I’ve heard (er, or said,) ”we have to get together after fashion week!” It’s a crime, really. But this isn’t about the mere mortals seated next to the runways, this is about the copious goodness that has thus far walked on them. And while this is called a Friday recap, let me begin by taking you back to Thursday night, where a star studded front row at Cynthia Rowley‘s unveiling of fall enjoyed mini bottles of prosecco equipped with obligatory straw. It’s the little things.

And here you have it: a military green monochrome look topped with a boyfriend fit overcoat and fancy jeweled choker compliments of our own: DANNIJO. To the right, while not the work of Danielle and Jodie, strategic spurts of embellished sequins and crystals adorned several of these looks. Not photographed here: a satin jumpsuit. Also not photographed here: leather overalls. Impressive indeed.

And following in no particular order: Jason Wu. This collection was wildly interesting to watch: the usual ladylike silhouettes and bold but elegant structured dresses of Wu took a turn for the bad ass in perhaps his darkest collection yet. The color palette included another homage to that military green, burgundy, and bright red. The collection as whole rendered military inspired but not in the hey, cool anorak sense of that word. I’m talking lieutenant general at ranking ceremony. Do also note, gorilla arms are still relevant.

This brings me to Rag & Bone, not necessarily in conjunction with gorilla arms but because both collections previewed a vintage looking brocade floral print designed unlike the curtains your grandmother turned into a bolero. It’s rough, it’s edgy, it rags, no boning. This collection was about layering, a flood of copper adorned the opening looks while more plays on prints and textures in muted color schemes that ran from oranges and reds to browns, blacks, greys strung through the rest of the collection.

And while we’re talking layering: here’s to Rebecca Taylor. This collection too was a nice departure from the flimsy and girly nature of Taylor’s usual design aesthetic. The overall vibe felt nineties grunge, a look I haven’t been ready to see let go. Details to note: ear pieces that extended from the lobe to the cartilage, harem-esque tights, and the important question: “are those chihuahua on my feet or am I walking?” posed and answered some twenty times.

From one Rebecca to another: while you may remember last night’s short homage to the Theophilus London performance at Rebecca Minkoff, there’s something to be said about the clothes too. To the left, a brocade pant suit fit for a repeller, where every eve is New Years Eve and to the right: I’m not sure if you’ve picked up on this trend just yet perusing these images, but alas: a peplum. I’d speculated last month while looking back at Kenzo that peplums over pants may be moving up the anatomical ladder et voila. Present at Wu, Doo.Ri, Rebecca Taylor, Minkoff and finally, from my favorite collection shown thus far:

Peter Som. Let’s see how many more shows we can throw into the genre with the progression of this week. Som was like walking in a winter wonderland. Think thick, lush and bright multi-colored furs, leather harem pants. The brilliant use of fabric and silhouette was complimented well by the sprinkling of organza, tweed, silk and wool. Ultimately though, the a-ha moment of yestermorning was a tribute to the mullet dress, a silhouette I’d thought may be nearing its end.

Alas, I am elated I was wrong.


NYFW: Rebecca Minkoff

Runway soundtracks are typically a show’s best trip, the music sets a mood and gets on lookers in gear. At Rebecca Minkoff on Friday, though, the runway soundtrack standard saw a new level set. Sitting in our seats, waiting for the to start, none other than New York’s own, Theophilus London emerges from behind the white walls singing Stand Alone–RIP How to Make it in America. Guitar pals et al.

photos taken with Samsung Galaxy Note

Hubba, hubba, so much leather. He proceeded to dance around with the models through the course of his first song until he went back into the white walls and let the girls do their thaaaangalang.


Christine Alcalay Fall 2012: Magnificent, Mid-Century-Inspired Silhouettes

Mid-Century American fashion has inspired many Fall 2012 collections: Rachel Roy, Jenny Packham, and now Christine Alcalay. Her presentation transported observers to a lush parlor setting, circa the 1940s/50s, and featured models in sleek, classic silhouettes. Crushed velvet, silk and chiffon in opulent jewel tones dominated the collection.


Topping off each look were loosely swept bouffant updos, and vivid makeup palates featuring fiery red lips and bold brows.  Alcalay certainly captured the look and feel of a bygone era.


Loved the dramatic arrangement of the models around the room. I felt like I was in the middle of a 1950s Douglas Sirk film.

Christine Alcalay gowns

Gorgeous gowns in rich navy and burgundy tones


One of my favorite looks from the collection: A gorgeous silk, mustard-hued, a-line dress. Classy, retro, sophisticated, and sexy. A must-have for my Fall closet!

Christine Alcalay Mustard Gown

Stunning mustard-hued dress


A great perspective on the hair and makeup – very 1940s Femme Fatale. Also loving the chiffon soft pleat blouse and dolman sleeve jacket.

Christine Alcalay Blouse, Dolman Jacket

Bold makeup, chic separates


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Chris Benz Fall 2012: Dizzy Dinner Party Hostess

Chris_Benz_Fall_2012_collection - FlyandMighty.com

Lipstick reds and crayon greens came together in Benz's fall 2012 collection


Chris Benz’s fall 2012 presentation was a whimsical sartorial romp into a fantasy land of floppy oversized bows, full skirts, sequins, beads, tin and gold foil, and lipstick red and green plaids. The styling evoked Mrs. Kravitz, the nosy neighbor from the Bewitched series that aired from 1964 to 1972, with the metaphor extending to a dizzy (and slightly drunk) ’60s-era dinner party hostess.


Chris_Benz_Fall_2012_three-finger_gloves - FlyandMighty.com

Benz's patent leather, three-finger elbow-length gloves

The collection was decadent (think fur sweater and skirt), yet there was nothing stiff about it. Presented against a shimmering curtain of gold paillettes, Benz’s sleek caps were pinned atop frazzled hair, three-finger patent leather gloves stretched up to the elbows, and in one dress a playful mix of beads and sequins of all sizes came together.


Sober or nipped up from a few too many pre-dinner cocktails, it was a fun collection that didn’t take itself too seriously.



It's a paillette party!


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[photos by Nana Brew-Hammond]


NYFW: Blasts from the Past

New York Fashion Week is such a good time: the city becomes a place where the Sh*t Girls Say caliber of comments is maximized ten fold, “Honestly, I can’t even” is a full sentence, circus wear is rendered most trendy wear by style setters west side wide and perhaps most fun: the new season’s trend-casting begins. Here below find a small bit from day 0 and the beginning of day 1.

At 10 Crosby by Derek Lam, Hanne Gaby Odiele reigns in an over-sized checkered print pant where that familiar palazzo silhouette enjoys another season in the spotlight. A textured light fur cropped jacket, sheer maxi dresses and a certain champagne colored slim fit blazer pay tribute to 1970s nostalgia.

A trend recognized well at BCBG Max Azria too. Lush fur accents offer new character to the outerwear while loose fit straight midi length sheath dresses compose most of what goes on underneath. In one instance, a long skort on steroids of sorts made fancy way too. That was fun. And the color palette stays consistent: loads of beige, burnt yellows and oranges sprinkled over a dose of navy and burgundy.

Richard Chai gives the sheer palazzo pant another go too and exhibits some interesting bulge pockets complimented by half a sleeping bag. Naturally fit for a freak like us. One entity people, uno. What’s been interesting is that not very many, or dare I say, any of the designers I’ve thus far seen have experimented much with any more print blocking. There are sprouts here and there, but ultimately, I think we may be returning to a place of solid.

So let’s conclude this with Rachel Comey and her small homage to Audrey Hepburn. I can get behind any pant exhibiting a slit through the front leg, and any look that’s clean, polished and strung together by a pair of sneaker/brogue hybrids.

Stay tuned for a review on the Mulan inspired collection of Kimberly Ovitz, including a serious play on that black texture we looked at earlier this month. Alas, just in:

At left, the interesting black texture I’d previously referenced. At right, an opportune look at the Mulan influence. I’ve really enjoyed watching the Kimberly Ovitz evolution during the last few seasons. Dresses have gone from simple sheaths, to more complex pieces and finally to full fledged outfits. This is what I’d argue her best collection yet. Images from Style.com


Rachel Roy Fall 2012: Constructed With Love

Coming from Jenny Packham‘s ’40s-influenced show, Rachel Roy’s fall 2012 presentation built on the era-inspired theme with a modern twist, of course. Showing brimmed hats with flannel suits, and skirts that fell at or below the knee, she added intricate detail layering contrasting fabrics in one garment in different colors, creating a colorblock effect. Each piece appeared to be constructed with love.


Rachel Roy's fall 2012 collection boasted a natural palette of pine and foliage greens


The chunky tape knits she showed in her spring 2012 presentation, were winterized into tanks and luscious scarves. For evening, the designer presented a pant option in winter rose paired with a backless petal top and a gorgeous drape cut-out dresses.


A sleeveless tape knit top in Rachel Roy's fall 2012 collection


The accessories were incredible. I loved the box clutch below in particular.


Cuffs, clutches, and floppy-brimmed hats accessorized Rachel Roy's fall 2012 looks


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[photos by Nana Brew-Hammond]


Simon Spurr Fall 2012: Cunningly Deceptive

image courtesy of style.com


Simon Spurr Fall 2012 is a droolfest–I just can’t close my mouth at every look; each look was jaw dropping-ly amazing!

There were hidden gems in this menswear line that I found fascinating. For one, a few suits and shirts had a variation of the houndstooth pattern. It isn’t quite houndstooth but it’s close enough to compare to. The grey suit below is a must have and the most unique suit I have seen so far in NYFW.


I also love(!) the wool coat seen above. The arms are made of alligator!! I could not peal my eyes away as I watched it come down the runway. I actually let out an “OMG!” and shrieked. Amazing!


Simon Spurr always knows how to cleverly create a menswear line that separates the creativity from the other menswear lines.


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Carmen Marc Valvo Fall 2012: Crystal Clear

Photo by Brian Ach

For his Fall 2012 Collection, Carmen Marc Valvo found inspiration in the slinky, fluid body of the python. With its winding hallways, the Nasdaq Building high above Times Square laid the perfect setting for Valvo to tell his story. Using the juxtaposition of light and dark in the film noir period, Valvo combined chic skin-tight dresses with black leather accents and asymmetrical detailing. He honored Lauren Bacall in his fall collection with a palette of ivory, black, camel and deep reds and browns.


Highlights: sequined gowns, suede python prints, trench coats, floor-length gowns


Trends Hit: python, suede, waistband belts, ivory, burgundy, optical illusion gowns


Accessories: Minimal jewelry, strappy heels


Favorite Piece: floor-length ivory coat with shortened collar lapels