Naeem Khan Fall 2012: The Handmade’s Tale

Naeem Khan Fall 2012 - FlyandMighty.com

Naeem Khan Fall 2012

Known for the luxurious handmade textiles he creates — and for dressing Michelle Obama for her first state dinner – Naeem Khan did not disappoint with his fall 2012 collection. In fact, it was hard to decide which was more beautiful; the fabrics or the pieces themselves. The details were incredible.

 

Beads were embroidered in swirling and floral patterns onto tulle, metallic threadwork was embroidered onto wool and silk, teardrops of beads were affixed onto sheers to create a 3D polka dot effect, and stretch cigarette pants were jet-beaded. One of my favorite pieces in the collection was a one-shoulder, full-skirted maxi gown with an oversized bow at the shoulder.

 

Check out this vintage backstage interview with Khan from the spring 2009 season in which he speaks about his textiles.

 

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[photos by Nana Brew-Hammond]

 
 

Christine Alcalay Fall 2012: Magnificent, Mid-Century-Inspired Silhouettes

Mid-Century American fashion has inspired many Fall 2012 collections: Rachel Roy, Jenny Packham, and now Christine Alcalay. Her presentation transported observers to a lush parlor setting, circa the 1940s/50s, and featured models in sleek, classic silhouettes. Crushed velvet, silk and chiffon in opulent jewel tones dominated the collection.

 

Topping off each look were loosely swept bouffant updos, and vivid makeup palates featuring fiery red lips and bold brows.  Alcalay certainly captured the look and feel of a bygone era.

 

Loved the dramatic arrangement of the models around the room. I felt like I was in the middle of a 1950s Douglas Sirk film.

Christine Alcalay gowns

Gorgeous gowns in rich navy and burgundy tones

 

One of my favorite looks from the collection: A gorgeous silk, mustard-hued, a-line dress. Classy, retro, sophisticated, and sexy. A must-have for my Fall closet!

Christine Alcalay Mustard Gown

Stunning mustard-hued dress

 

A great perspective on the hair and makeup – very 1940s Femme Fatale. Also loving the chiffon soft pleat blouse and dolman sleeve jacket.

Christine Alcalay Blouse, Dolman Jacket

Bold makeup, chic separates

 

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Chris Benz Fall 2012: Dizzy Dinner Party Hostess

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Lipstick reds and crayon greens came together in Benz's fall 2012 collection

 

Chris Benz’s fall 2012 presentation was a whimsical sartorial romp into a fantasy land of floppy oversized bows, full skirts, sequins, beads, tin and gold foil, and lipstick red and green plaids. The styling evoked Mrs. Kravitz, the nosy neighbor from the Bewitched series that aired from 1964 to 1972, with the metaphor extending to a dizzy (and slightly drunk) ’60s-era dinner party hostess.

 

Chris_Benz_Fall_2012_three-finger_gloves - FlyandMighty.com

Benz's patent leather, three-finger elbow-length gloves

The collection was decadent (think fur sweater and skirt), yet there was nothing stiff about it. Presented against a shimmering curtain of gold paillettes, Benz’s sleek caps were pinned atop frazzled hair, three-finger patent leather gloves stretched up to the elbows, and in one dress a playful mix of beads and sequins of all sizes came together.

 

Sober or nipped up from a few too many pre-dinner cocktails, it was a fun collection that didn’t take itself too seriously.

 

Chris_Benz_Fall_2012_sequins_FlyandMighty

It's a paillette party!

 

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[photos by Nana Brew-Hammond]

 
 

Rachel Roy Fall 2012: Constructed With Love

Coming from Jenny Packham‘s ’40s-influenced show, Rachel Roy’s fall 2012 presentation built on the era-inspired theme with a modern twist, of course. Showing brimmed hats with flannel suits, and skirts that fell at or below the knee, she added intricate detail layering contrasting fabrics in one garment in different colors, creating a colorblock effect. Each piece appeared to be constructed with love.

Rachel_Roy_Fall_2012_FlyandMighty

Rachel Roy's fall 2012 collection boasted a natural palette of pine and foliage greens

 

The chunky tape knits she showed in her spring 2012 presentation, were winterized into tanks and luscious scarves. For evening, the designer presented a pant option in winter rose paired with a backless petal top and a gorgeous drape cut-out dresses.

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A sleeveless tape knit top in Rachel Roy's fall 2012 collection

 

The accessories were incredible. I loved the box clutch below in particular.

Rachel_Roy_Fall_2012_clutch_FlyandMighty

Cuffs, clutches, and floppy-brimmed hats accessorized Rachel Roy's fall 2012 looks

 

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[photos by Nana Brew-Hammond]

 
 

Jenny Packham Fall 2012: Hooray for Hollywood

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The smoking finale look at Jenny Packham

 

It’s no wonder that Angelina Jolie, Kate Winslet, and Duchess Catherine herself are repeat Jenny Packham wearers. The designer has perfected a Hollywood glam that manages to be minimal yet festively festooned at the same time.  For her Fall 2012 line, she continued in her strength, opening the show with a cloud of smoke, before sending a succession of smoking looks down the runway. It came down to the beadwork — crystal-encrusted halters, all-over beads, and shining shoulders designed to look as if the bling had dripped like candle wax on the side of the dress, or spun to look like an elaborate spider web. ’40s references abounded in the collection with sharply cut pencil skirts, strong shoulders, and beauty (dark lips, and knotted hair against pale skin). It was incredibly beautiful.

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[photos by Nana Brew-Hammond]

 
 

Zac Posen Fall 2012 in Pictures

Our photographer Maria Moreno captured the striking looks at the Zac Posen’s Fall 2012 show. Take a look!

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[photos by Nana Brew-Hammond]

 
 

A Détacher Fall 2012: Samurai Meets… Psych Ward?

A Detacher's Fall 2012 Fashion Week Show - FlyandMighty.com

Backstage at A Detacher's Fall 2012 Fashion Week Show

 

When the models first hit the runway at A Détacher’s Fall 2012 show with Ben Brunnemer playing in the background, it set the scene for a deranged warrior breaking out of the psych ward. (Yes, my mind went that far.) Long shapeless asymmetrical
wraps paired with constructed bobs evoked a sort of strait jacket fashion. However, there were pieces that got me excited. The highwaisted knit skirts and pants were definitely staple pieces. In sum, A Détacher presented an interesting story — a story I am still trying to understand.

 

 

[Photo by Chelsea Lauren, Getty Images]

 
 

Tracy Reese Fall 2012: Grey Skies Are Gonna Clear Up

Tracy Reese Fall 2012 - FlyandMighty

A look from Tracy Reese's Fall 2012 runway show

 

For her Fall 2012 collection — her 12th season showing at the Fashion Week tents! — Tracy Reese presented her collection against a massive mood board of the graphic shapes, bold colors, and patterns which the models entered the runway from. The pieces (referenced in the the mood board) heavily referenced the ’60s mod with graphic shapes and ’70s boho complete with fur-collared belted trenches and blinging embroidery. TMetallic pockets blocked onto black and red shorts evoked the ’80s. It was a very young and happy statement, refreshingly cheerful given the grey skies and freezing temperatures just outside the tents; and a note of ebullient optimism considering these economic times.

 

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[Photo by Frazer Harrison, courtesy of Getty Images]

 
 

Mimi Plange Fall 2012: Serious Luxe

Mimi Plange Fall 2012 - FlyandMighty.com

Mimi Plange was inspired by Celtic beading patterns

In the five years since Mimi Plange announced herself as a designer, she has racked-up high-placed and high-fashion fans. Everyone from Rihanna to Michelle Trachtenberg to Princess Astrid of Belgium have donned her pieces known for their luxurious attention to detail, while Vogue‘s Andre Leon Talley and Rachel Zoe attended her spring 2012 presentation in support of her talent. As if that weren’t enough icing on Plange’s cake, she was featured in the coffee table book New African Fashionand included in a New York Times piece on the title. The cherry? Manolo Blahnik teamed up with her to create custom shoes.

 

Mimi Plange collaborated with Manolo Blahnik to create spring and fall 2012 shoes

Mimi Plange collaborated with Manolo Blahnik to create spring and fall 2012 shoes

Fresh off the momentum of the last few months, Plange presented her Fall 2012 collection in the penthouse suite of the swanky Setai 5th Avenue Private Residences. Inspired by an imaginary surrealist Nordic forest, Plange built a collection around the ancient Celtic knot, interpreting it into intricate beadwork on seriously luxe gowns and dresses.

 

Plange employed texture to tell her fall 2012 story. If her pieces weren’t beaded, they were fluffy with mongolian fur and mohair, and soft to the touch with alpaca wool, silk, and velvet. Shape was also a key theme as retro box cut dresses and coats emphasized the waist in some way, whether with belted waists or panels of fabric.

 

I look forward to seeing more from Plange in the seasons to come!

 

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[photos by Nana Brew-Hammond]

 
 

Malandrino Fall 2012: Mighty Aphrodite

A look from Catherine Malandrino's Fall 2012 collection - FlyandMighty.com

Oversized paillettes stitched onto a sheer net dress at Malandrino


 
Beyonce‘s stylist Ty Hunter, Gossip Girl‘s Kelly Rutherford, Vogue‘s Hamish Bowles, and designer Elie Tahari were among the fans that braved the 33 degree temperature Sunday morning for Catherine Malandrino’s Fall 2012 presentation. Manhattan’s Eyebeam Studio was packed to capacity as photographers, bloggers, and editors jostled to snap photos of dresses that seemed to be the result of the most glamorous fishing expedition ever.

 

Catherine Malandrino Fall 2012 - FlyandMighty.com

A new kind of fishnet


 
The net went into the water, and out came sparkling paillette scales and shards of glittering black fabulously patched onto mesh dresses. The models’ hair was slicked back with a wet sheen to look like they had just come out of the water. 
 
The mesh motif was carried out across the collection which was meant to be a statement on the juxtaposition of “virtue and vice” according to the press notes as patent leather was blocked onto wool jackets, a shrunken cardigan topped a patent pencil skirt, and a sporty letterman jacket was re-imagined with mohair and a sprinkle of sequins.
 
Catherine Malandrino Fall 2012

Looks from Catherine Malandrino's Fall 2012 collection


 
Needless to say I loved every minute of this collection. I can’t wait to see if any of the looks make it onto a future Gossip Girl episode or on new mama Beyonce.
 
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[photos by Nana Brew-Hammond]

 
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